Autorickshaws and haggling over 50 cents

Depending on the types of interactions I’ve had all day, I either feel that everyone here is out to rob/screw me, or is trying to just make an honest living.

For example, I’m sometimes overcharged 30 rupees for an autorickshaw ride of under 4 kilometers. I never know when and how much to haggle, and when I should let the 50 cents go (50 cents, Sapna, that’s it!).

On the one hand, the overcharging frequently occurs, and I remind myself I can buy two oilee wadas (deep fried onion balls in batter) or a bus ride the same distance for under 5 rupees.

On the other hand, $ and an American passport make me a privileged visitor.

I wish someone had told me the following before I got here:

1. Rickshaw drivers are technically supposed to turn on the meter when driving you around in TRV proper. TRV proper, however, is something like 2 square km (I exaggerate, but suffice it to say it’s small).

2. At night, expect to pay the meter + half that amount –sometimes drivers will ask for a return fare since they may not be able to find a fare back (or so they say).

3. Haggling and bargaining is normal…unfortunately. If you’re obviously an outsider, be expected to be quoted higher prices.

4. There’s a small waiting/rest charge that accrues at lights and if the driver stops for directions.

5. Tip by rounding up to the nearest 5 (or however generous you are feeling). Some people here only give 2-3 rupees extra, and sometimes, I give nothing extra if I know I’ve been overcharged.

The best thing is to have in mind how much the distance you’re going might cost, to up your bargaining power. Also, it helps to be Malayalee (and a good Malayalam speaker, so no help for me!).

There’s a great and funny passage about caste and being a driver in India in a book I’m currently reading called the White Tiger (by Aravind Adiga). It does a much better and funnier job of summarizing everything I want to convey in this post. I’d quote it, but I’m listening to the book on tape, and I admit I’m avoiding dictation since that is an activity I frequently have to to in my Malayalam class….